Hail the Polish Winter Kings

NangaparbatRupal.jpgThe Polish climbing team is organizing Polish International Winter Nanga Parbat Expedition 2006/2007 led by Wielicki Krzysztof. Ten members are sure to come plus two members reserve. They have done their “warm up ” climb on Ama Dablam, Nepal and plan to arrive next week in Islamabad for briefing. The expedition is climbing via Nangaparbat’s massive Rupal Face, the biggest wall on earth. On 4th November they got the official permit from Tourism Office.

The expedition is hiring two high altitude porters including Mr. Hassan of Sadpara village who has climbed all five 8000m peaks in Pakistan.

“It’s the one good fight that never ends” – the quest for Mastery.

The eighties are long gone but a warrior’s soul never dies: The tough bunch of climbers who wrote the coolest pages of mountaineering history 20 years back are still kicking – and more. In only a few weeks, they will take on any mountaineer’s ultimate nightmare: A winter climb on a Pakistan 8000er.

Not even Messner could beat them. Polish climbers have all the first winter ascents on Himalayan 8000ers. However, non of the five 8000+ giants in Pakistan have been climbed in winters. But when it comes to winter ascents, polish are the “surgeons”.

They did it between 1980 and 1988. 14 years later, in 2002, one of the pioneers – Krzysztof Wielicki – called out to the new generation. “We have done the first half of the job, now it’s your turn to finish it.” But only one climber heard him – Jan Szulc – and he was not exactly a young gun. Nevertheless, Szulc was the leader of the expedition that put Piotr Morawski and Simone Moro on the summit of Shisha Pangma in January 2005

2 Comments so far

  1. Phil (unregistered) on November 18th, 2006 @ 1:20 pm

    Are there any good photo albums available in book stores from this mountianeering expidetions? I know there are alot of fatalities on these excursions, but still they would make for a good collector’s item.

    These breathtakingly amazing mountains are a Pakistani treasure. We should relish every aspect of them being there…!


  2. 1967 (unregistered) on November 19th, 2006 @ 1:20 pm

    Try Saeed Book Bank in F-7 Markaz



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