Failed But Not Defeated

np%2520winter%2520group.jpgEarlier I posted about the Polish climbers attempting Nanga Parbat’s first winter ascent. However due deteriorating weather and extreme action in tough conditions made them end their quest. They reached on 20th in Islamabad in two groups. Every one was safe and sound happy to be back in civilization.

“We had hoped to ascend the mountain in a fast style but weather forecast gives us no chances to climb that way. Any further action would put our life and health in danger. For years Polish Himalayan expeditions have always returned with the summit or without it, but always with all their participants. We want to continue this tradition.”

“On January 14 all team members are back in BC,” reported the Poles. “The route above Camp 3 is not yet fixed. The expedition is thus not ready for a summit push.”

“Participants are tired both physically and mentally due to prolonged mountain action in extreme conditions. The decision concerning the fate of the expedition should be made in the coming hours or days. We need to analyze the situation, calculate our strength, chances and dangers. And most of all, we need to check the weather forecasts.”

Two days later the decision was made: It was over.

“Maybe one day we will try again,” Wilicki’s team said. “We are sure it is possible to summit Nanga Parbat in winter via the Schell route – under certain conditions.”

The team should be larger.
High altitude porters should be more experienced in climbing, ideally they should come from the Hunza region.
Climbing time should be longer.
Style should be definitely a ‘siege’ attempt. It is necessary to fix ropes almost the very summit (4mm ropes on the Diamir side).”

They might come back for Winter Nanga Parbat Expedition same route in 2008 as said by the leader.

2 Comments so far

  1. Phil (unregistered) on January 30th, 2007 @ 12:53 am

    Siege attempt, hrrmmzz, care to elaborate this style? Sounds militaristic.


  2. 1967 (unregistered) on January 30th, 2007 @ 10:21 am

    There are two styles adopted to climb, the alpine style, or the siege style (also known as expedition style)Alpine style refers to mountaineering in a self-sufficient manner, thereby carrying all of one’s food, shelter, equipment etc. as one climbs, as opposed to expedition style (or siege style) mountaineering which involves setting up a fixed line of stocked camps on the mountain which can be accessed at ones leisure



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